If it weren’t for the valley south of Granada, “nowhere to go but up” would neatly sum up the riding here. Located in the morning shadow of Spain’s Sierra Nevada range, it’s not just the obscure upshoot of two continents colliding (and the Sierras are still growing at about one centimeter per century) that make this place both stunning and a pain in the ass all at once, it’s about how mentally fit you are to absorb beauty and suffering at the same time.
If all you’ve ever done are short climbs, the way to do these routes is to focus on the next 100 meters (or yards), and then the next after that until eventually you get to where you want to be. This selection of Granada’s top climbs (that aren’t Veleta) offer a potent mix of intrigue, suffering, and finally, self-fulfillment. The views are nice too. Check them out.
Each ride listed here includes my own ride stats, which you can use as a measure for your own ride.
Sierra de Huétor-Puerto Lobo-Aguas Blancas-Quéntar-Dúdar-Granada*
What’s so great about this ride is that a good part of it passes through Parque Natural de Sierra de Huétor, a protected area laced with dirt roads (caminos) that seem to be lovingly maintained. The parque sits at an elevation of 1100 meters (3,609 feet) on up to 1900 meters (6,234 feet), so just to get there is a climb. Once there though, you can stitch together a ride that’s contained in the park (be sure to know where you’re going or have a way to orient yourself, otherwise you could be seriously f&%$ed if you get lost). This was the first time I did this ride in a clockwise direction (because I thought I could get most of the climbing out of the way at the beginning, which was only partly true). There are very few places to fill up on water and practically zero places to stop for food, so it’s a good idea to load up on both before you leave.
If you do this ride, stop and savor the unspoiled moments — that’s why you’re doing this, right?!
*The start/finish for this ride is where I accidentally pressed “Finished” instead of “Resume” after a map check. When I merged the two segments, Komoot made my blooper the ride’s start.
Cumbres Verdes circular
This is one of my favorite rides because the climb is steady enough for you to exit the present and think about something else, like saving democracy or becoming a better person. The descent takes more focus so eyes on the road please.
Here in Granada, there are rides for summer and there are rides for winter. The criteria for classification include how much shade there is (summer), what’s the ride’s highest point (summer and winter), and how much of a descent there is (winter). This ride fits both categories because it’s possible to climb under the sun’s full glare in winter or partly under the shade of pine trees in summer. The descent isn’t long enough that you’ll freeze in winter, but it is rewarding in summer, though best to leave for this ride by/before 8:00 a.m. in summer.
Ermita Vieja
This is a bit of unfinished business since it can be done as a circular route. The ermita (hermitage) is a Castilian-style stone hunters’ lodge constructed in 1991 on (or near) the site the Ermita del Picón del Savial. The view from up there is why it’s worth climbing. This ride was introduced to me by a local cycling club when I first arrived in Granada in 2009 and, while it’s possible to take an alternate route down the same side as the climb, it’s not possible on a gravel bike. To be honest, the upper third of the descent was painful on my steel gravel bike with carbon fork because of chunky exposed rocks that conspired with the sun and spotty leaf cover to make going down an epic guessing game of where the line was. Without suspension, my sightline bounced all over the camino in front of me and made the descent even more thrilling.
I’ll be doing this one again very soon and I’ll do the full circuit instead of up and back on the same route.
Camino de los Neveros (Route of the Snowfields)
Ice was once a luxury item that had to be retrieved from someplace where it was well, icy. This route dates to the 16th century and tracks a straight shot upward in the direction of el Pico del Veleta, from which ice was brought to Granada, presumably by sturdy pack animals. This isn’t a long ride but some areas demand focus because if you pick the wrong line and spin out, it’s not easy to get going again due to the camino’s steepness.
The best way to approach this route is to manage your pace because the climb can seem endless — especially when you’re out of power. If you like to climb, “estás en tu salsa” (“you’re in your sauce” — Spanish for being in your element) in Granada. I wasn’t much of a climber when I arrived in Granada, but there wasn’t much choice: embrace climbing or hang up the bike. Now I enjoy getting into the meditative rhythm of climbing.
I didn’t spend much time covering the views to be earned on these climbs. Suffice to say they are spectacular and, if you don’t believe me, go see them for yourself!